Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Octapeptide-3- inhibit muscle contraction to reduce appearance of expression lines. Topical Botox-like effect. In Revox II by Revision. See Temple Viper Venom.
Algae extract (Enteromorpha Compressa, Carrageenan, Hypnea/Gelidiela/Sargassum, Ahnfeltia, laminaria digitata) – rich in amino acids, proteins, minerals, vitamins – firms, improves moisture, hydration, and elasticity in the skin, anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and helpful for skin renewal. Revision, Skinceuticals, iS Clinical.
Aloe Vera – anti-inflammatory and wound healing, and now reports of it benefitting acne. Fruit of the Earth, SkinMD Natural Shielding Lotion, Aloe Vera Gel, Immuderm healing cream, Revision, iS Clinical, Sircuitskin, Jack Black.
Allantoin – healing and soothing, anti-irritant, helpful for cold sores/blisters. Revision line.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids – derived from sugar cane (glycolic acid), sour milk (lactic acid), apples (malic acid), grapes (tartaric acid). Commonly used for a superficial peel. Skinceuticals, GlyMed.
Althea Officinalis (see marsh mallow root extract), Epionce.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract (Norwegian Kelp) – exfoliates, lighten pigment. iS Clinical.
Aminobutyric Acid – (GABA) – relaxes muscles helping reduce wrinkles. Tingles when applied to skin. Revision Revox II.
Arbutin – a natural skin lightener, in Skinceuticals Primacy Photo +, Revision Brightening Facial Wash (Bearberry leaf extract/ Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi), iS Clinical (Alpha-Arbutin).
Argan – from the fruit of the Moroccan argan tree, moisturizing, hydrating, with tocopherols known for calming inflamed skin. Josie Maran 100% Pure organ oil.
Arnica Montana Extract – stimulates blood flow, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, for muscle soreness, and bruise healing. Teamine Eye Complex by Revision, Dermend, SkinMD Natural Shielding Lotion, Jack Black.
Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima) – source of omega-3 fatty acids. Skin hydration, softening and elasticity. Epionce.
Bakuchiol – plant-based antibacteral. Clarity MD.
Bearberry Leaf Extract – see Arbutin
Beeswax – natural humectant and emollient, antioxidant. Revision line.
Bentonite – a detoxifying, natural clay made of a mineral called Montmorillonite and volcanic ash. Absorbs excess oil and helps control acne. Revision’s Black Mask.
Benzoyl Peroxide – antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, helps control acne. In Obagi Clenziderm, ProActiv, PCA line, Dermalogica, Glytone.
Beta-Hydroxy Acid – derived from the bark of a willow tree. Gives a superficial peel. The most common is salicylic acid. In many acne treatments b/c of it’s exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial. Skinceuticals, SilkPeel.
Bilberry Fruit Extract (Vaccinium Myrtillus) – exfoliates, moisturizes. iS Clinical. Sircuitskin.
Bisabolol – botanical extract from the German chamomile plant. Anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-redness. Revision, Skinceuticals, Clarity MD, Avene.
Bismuth subsalicylate, in Pepto Bismol, acts like it’s relative salicylic acid, exfoliates and unclogs pores.
Bidens Pilosa (Spanish Needle) Extract. Used in Chinese herbal medicine, anti-inflammatory with vitamin A. In Epionce line.
Bixa Orellana (Achiote) Seed Extract – antimicrobial and vitamins A and E. Epionce Line.
Blueberry Extract – prevents degradation and rigidification (aging metabolic slowdown changes) of healthy collagen, stimulates extra-cellular matrix components. SkinCeuticals.
Bromelain Enzymes – from pineapple, exfoliates, and rebuilds collagen. iS Clinical.
Caffeine – reduces puffiness, in cellulite-treatment creams and eye creams. Teamine Eye Complex by Revision.
Calendula – from blossom of the lime tree, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, skin-clearing, and soothing. Skinceuticals, Immuderm.
Carthamus Tinctorius (see safflower seed oil)
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide (botanical hyaluronic acid) – absorbs water to hydrate skin, if able to penetrate to the dermis may stimulate fibroblasts to make new collagen. iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex.
C Vitamin – antioxidant, stimulates collagen synthesis, anti-inflammatory, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, brightens discolored skin. Skinceuticals, Revision (ultra-stable form THD Ascorbate – Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.) Dermalogica, Glytone, iS Clinical, Obagi.
Centelline (Centella Asiatica) – smooths and minimizes the appearance of scars. SkinMedica Scar Recovery Gel, iS Clinical.
Ceramides – strengthen and repair the skin’s barrier, improves hydration of the skin. In Nectifirm by Revision. TNS Ceramides by SkinMedica.
Chamomile Flower Extract (Chamomilla Recutita) – antioxidant, anti-irritant, anti-viral, photo-protective. iS Clinical, SkinMD Natural Shielding Lotion.
Chronoline – (Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3) – a peptide that activates skin repair and reduces appearance of wrinkles. Glytone.
Chrysin Hydroxysuccinimide – from the blue passion flower. Solubilizes iron deposits under the skin, and helps eliminate pigmented bilirubin. In Teamine Concealer by Revision.
Creatine – an amino acid metabolite, helps maintain cell energy. Neocutis.
Crithium Maritimum Extract – activates retinoid – vitamin A – receptors but without the inflammation of a regular retinoid.
Coconut oil – emollient/moisturizer, antibacterial, antifungal.
Copper PCA – astringent, hydrating, inhibits melanin synthesis, anti-microbial, and antioxidant. Promotes growth of collagen and elastin, reduces fine wrinkles, prevents hyperpigmentation. Revision.
Copper Peptides – Promotes new vascularization, formation of new collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans in skin to tissue repair and rejuvenation. In Neova.
Copper Tripeptide HGF Growth Factor – antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, for wound healing and promotion of healthy collagen formation. iS Clinical.
Cotton Seed oil (Gossypium Herbaceum) – anti-viral, and anti-tumor.
Cucumber – anti-inflammatory, soothes and calms redness, burning, itch, and irritation in the skin, and brightens skin tone. In SkinCeuticals, Revision, Immuderm.
Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract – Cantalope, contains the precursors for vitamin A, B, and C synthesis, and photoprotective.
D (Vitamin D) – helps skin cell turnover.
Dextran Sulfate – decongesting properties, minimizes swelling
Diacetyl Boldine – from the Chilean Boldo Tree, prevents tyrosinase activation. In Lumiquin from Revision.
Dihydroxyacetone – (DHA) the key ingredient in most self-tanners and spray tans that temporarily stains the skin to tint it darker. It’s a sugar that reacts with amino groups in the stratum corneum to produce the temporary brown color. (see Erythrulose for more info.) Skinceuticals.
Dimethicone – emollient and skin barrier/protectant. The key ingredient in many moisturizers for skin or hair. Skinceuticals.
DNA Repair – usually refers to a ingredients that are enzymes needed by skin cells to reverse DNA sun damage. In Neova.
Vitamin E – (Tocopherol) – antioxidant, moisturizing, Teamine Concealer, Glytone.
EGCG = Epigallocatechin Gallate – from green tea – antioxidant. NeoCutis.
Elaeis Guineensis ( Palm) Oil – African Oil Palm – wound healing, with vitamin C in Epionce line.
Ellagic Acid – antioxidant, antiproliferative ( ? anti-cancer), found in berries and medicinal mushrooms.
Erythrulose – a sugar that acts in the same way as DHA (see dihydroxyacetone) to temporarily tan the skin. It is thought to spread more evenly in the skin than DHA and is often combined with DHA in self-tanners.
Ferulic Acid – neutralizes free radicals and oxidative reactions, prevents sun-induce pigment formation or tanning. SkinCeuticals.
Filagrinol = pollen extract + soybean oil + wheat germ oil, contains vitamin E, moisturizing.
Flax Extract – Anti-inflammatory and skin firming, in the Epionce line.
Ginger – anti-inflammatory, analgesic. Jack Black.
Gingko Biloba Leaf Extract – antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, improves microcirculation. iS Clinical.
Gluconolactone – a polyhydroxy acid that, adjusts pH, moisturizes and hydrates the skin, also an anti-oxidant, and heavy metal chelator. TruLipids.
Green Tea Extract – Potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, prevents DNA skin damage from UV radiation. Teamine Eye Complex by Revision.
Growth Factors – studies show they increase skin collagen and elastin levels. Stem cells produce growth factors. SkinMedica, LifeLine.
Glycolic Acid – an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliates, helps to brighten and lighten dark skin discolorations, stimulates new collagen and dermal thickening, and may increase sensitivity to the sun. Revision Skin Resurfacer, Glytone.
Glycosaminoglycans – supports collagen, increases skin firmness, elasticity, and resistance to stress.
Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis) – antibiotic, antifungal, antiyeast, helpful for eczema, and acne.
Gossypium Herbaceum – see Cotton Seed Oil
Hazelnut Protein – increases collagen synthesis for wrinkle improvement. Revision Hydrating Serum.
Helianthus Annuus (see Sunflower Oil)
Hesperidin methyl chalcone – reduces the appearance of vascular capillaries. In
Avene Anti-rougeurs line.
Honey – antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, restore and repair skin, control acne, wound healing. iS clinical.
Horse Chestnut – Anti-inflammatory, strengthens and tones capillaries. In Teamine Eye Complex by Revision, Sircuitskin.
Hyaluronic Acid (sodium Hyaluronate) – found naturally in the dermis, absorbs water, providing hydration and moisture without oil. Used in many Fillers, Revision Hydrating Serum, Dermalogica, iS Clinical, SkinMedica body lotion.
Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid – inhibits melanin transfer in the epidermis. Helps to lighten discolored skin. Skinceuticals, Advanced Pigment Corrector.
Hydroquinone – causes necrosis or death of melanocytes in the skin resulting in skin lightening, for treatment of dark discolorations of the skin. Toxicity and ochronosis (blue-black discoloration) reported with abuse and overuse, and carcinogenicity in animal studies. Obagi, Skin Lightening Complex.
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract – rich in potassium, improves collagen synthesis and moisture. iS Clinical.
Jewelweed – to treat and prevent poison ivy rash.
Jojoba – derived from a seed of a southwestern shrub, very moisturizing. L’Oreal Age Perfect Cell Renewal Facial Oil Light.
K (Vitamin K/Phytonadione) – strengthens vessel walls, inhibits bruising/bleeding. Assists in coagulation. Teamine Eye Complex by Revision.
Kale extract – in Citrus and Kale potent C and E Serum, by Eminence
Kinetin – plant-derived growth factor improves fine wrinkles, in Obagi Gentle Rejuvenation System.
Lactic Acid – an alpha-hydroxy acid effective at exfoliating/shedding dead epidermal skin cells. AmLactin Cream, Avene Akerat line.
Lavender Oil – anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, anti-bacterial, energizing, soothing, healing. Skinceuticals. Letinus Edodes ( Shitake mushroom) – source of vitamin A, B, C, D, diminishes surface microbial counts.
In Epionce line, Jack Black.
Licorice Root Extract (glycyrrhiza glabra) – Inhibits tyrosinase activity, brightens and lightens dark skin spots. In Lumiquin by Revision. SilkPeel. iS Clinical.
Lutein – protect against sun induced free radicals and hydrate
Malic Acid – derived from apples. Properties – gentle exfoliation, antiseptic, improves cell energy and reverses muscle fatigue when taken orally. MaMa lotion.
Mandelic Acid – an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from almonds. Properties – gentle exfoliation and collagen stimulation for improvement of skin discolorations, wrinkles, acne. M2, MaMa lotion, Glytone.
Manuka honey from New Zealand. Contains an enzyme that releases antibacterial hydrogen peroxide. UMF Unique Manuka Factor of 10 or higher is good.
Marshmallow Root Extract (Althea Officinalis) – antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, keratolytic (sheds dead skin cells), wound healing. Epionce.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes Alba) – anti-inflammatory, skin tightening and firming. Epionce
Meadosweet (Filipendula ulmaria, bridewort) – keratolytic or sheds dead skin cells when applied topically in higher concentrations.
Melaplex – contains phenylethyl resorcinol, leucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, sodium glycerophosphate. For brown discoloration – in NeoCutis line.
Melissa (Balm, Lemon Balm, Sweet Balm) – antiviral, to heal Herpes simplex skin lesions, can help h eal mild infections like acne, and contains antioxidants which may be antiaging.
Mineral Oil – moisturizing, may be comedongenic
Mushroom – see Polyporus Umbellatus
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Extract – from a South African plant, contains quinic acid, a potent antioxidant. In Lumiquin by Revision.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) – DNA repair after sun damage, thickens epidermis, promotes microcirculation, up-regulates fillagrin and ceramide production needed for hydration and barrier function, respectively, of the skin, is essential for cell energy production. In Epionce. Cheryl Lee MD TrueLipids, iS Clinical, Dermend, Sircuitskin.
Nettle Extract – anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, healing, antioxidant, softens skin. SkinCeuticals.
Norwegian Kelp – see Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract.
Oat Kernal Oil – healing, anti-itch, and soothing, improves dry skin. Skinceuticals.
Oats (Avena sativa) – antiinflammatory, to calm itching and burning.
Olive (Leaf ) Oil – antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant. Helpful to control acne and sun damage. iS Clinical, Sircuitskin.
Orange Oil – from the peels of ripe oranges, antiseptic, soothing, helpful for acne. Skinceuticals.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 – produces new collagen to improve wrinkles and strengthen the dermis. Revision Hydrating Serum, Nectifirm by Revision.
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) – humectant moisturizer (attracts water), tissue repair, wound healing.
Persea Gratissima (see Avocado Oil)
Phloretin – from apples and root bark of fruit trees, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and anticancer, improves cell turnover, slows degradation of collagen, increases elastin, inhibits sun-induced pigment formation/tanning. SkinCeuticals.
Phytosphingosine – improves skin barrier and function, and skin moisture. SkinCeuticals.
Plantain (Plantago Major) – relieves pain, itch, infection of skin.
Polyporus Umbellatus (Mushroom) Extract – contains kojic acid which inhibits tyrosinase enzymes that produce skin pigment. In skin lighteners. Antibacterial. iS Clinical.
Proxylane – increases elastin, collagen and thickness of dermis, improves hydration. SkinCeuticals.
PSP – (Processed Skin Proteins) contains proteins and polypeptides, human growth factors and cytokines – for wrinkle improvement, in Neocutis line.
Raspberry Seed Oil (Rubus Idaeus) – photo-protective, and provides vitamin E. In Epionce line.
Red Tea Flavenoids – antioxidant. Glytone.
Resveratrol – potent antioxidant extracted from grapes – in Skinceuticals line.
Retinol – OTC retinoid, not requiring prescription from M.D., minimizes fine wrinkle lines, brightens/lightens dark skin spots, evens out skin tone. Will sun sensitize. SkinMedica, Dermalogica, Skinceuticals.
Rosaplex – contains sodium dextran sulfate, zinc PCA, caffeine, sodium glycerophosphate, glycerin for redness – in Neocutis skin line.
Rose Hip Oil – from the foothills of the Chilean Andes mountains, moisturizing, and improves elasticity in skin. Skinceuticals.
Rosemary Leaf Oil (Rosmarinus Officinalis) – antioxidant, sun-protective, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-viral, anti-cancer. iS Clinical, Jack Black.
Rubus Idaeus – see Raspberry Seed Oil
Ruscus Extract – vasoconstrictor, good for controlling and calming redness.
in Avene Antirougeurs skin line.
Safflower Seed Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius) – rich in ceramics, moisturizes, and supplies skin with essential fatty acid linoleic acid. Anti-inflammatory, dirt and oil removing for acne treatment. iS Clinical, Jurlique Purely Age Defying Firming Face Oil.
Sage Extract – anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, healing, softening, antioxidant-rich. Skinceuticals.
Salicylic Acid – exfoliates/sheds dead epidermal skin cells, improving acne, skin discolorations and texture. Obagi Blue Peel, SilkPeel (Clarifying), Glytone.
Salix Alba (see Willow Bark Extract)
Sea Buckthorn – contains omegas 3,6,7,9, rich in vitamin C and carotenoids. Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing face oil.
Shea Butter – soothing, moisturizing, healing, may stimulate collagen, contains the natural antioxidant cinnamic acid. Skinceuticals, Glytone.
Shitake mushroom ( see Lentinus )
Squalene – natural oil from olives, moisturizes. Revision Vitamin C Lotion.
Sucralfate – for skin healing, used for burns, cuts, post-procedure. Avene Cicalfate Restorative Skin Cream.
Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus) – smoothing, non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores), contains linoleic acid which prevents skin dryness. Skinceuticals.
Soy Extract/Peptides (isoflavones) – antioxidant effects, promotes new collagen and hyaluronic acid formation, inhibits melanin (pigment) formation, anti-inflammatory, emollient, so helpful for skin brightening. Skinceuticals, Teamine Eye Complex by Revision.
Temple Viper Venom-like peptide (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate – inhibits muscle contraction, to smooth wrinkles. In Revox II by Revision.
Thermal spring water – to restore normal skin pH to relieve burning and/or itch. Avene thermal spring water.
Tocopherol – natural Vitamin E, antioxidant, moisturizing. Teamine concealer by Revision.
Thyme – antiseptic (antibacterial, fungicidal), deodorizing, and improved circulation in skin, Jack Black, SkinCeuticals.
Thymulen (4-Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2) – a peptide that helps regenerate epidermis. Glytone.
Trichloroacetic acid – potent exfoliator. Glytone.
TNS – Tissue Nutrient Solution = combination of growth factors (see Growth Factors), cytokines, vitamins. SkinMedica
Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) – Potent antioxidant, protects skin from harmful UV rays. Teamine Eye Complex, Revision.
Vaccinium Myrtillus – see Bilberry fruit extract.
Vitaplex C – antioxidants, amino acid metabolite – to fight oxidative stress, neutralize free radicals, in Neocutis line.
Willow Bark Extract (Salix Alba) – encourages gentle exfoliation, anti-microbial, deep cleans pores. iS Clinical, Epionce.
Witch Hazel Extract – ant-inflammatory, wound healing, anti-itch, softens skin. Skinceuticals, Sircuitskin.
Yeast Extract – reduces intracellular melanin, protects and stimulates fibroblasts. Skinceuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector.
Zeatin – plant-derived growth factor that improves the appearance of fine wrinkles, in Obagi Gentle Rejuvenation.
Zinc – accelerates wound healing, protection against UVB radiation, increases collagen, decreases sebaceous oil in acne, may prolong duration of Botox. SkinCeuticals.